Rear End Question

[Laurie S.]

Now that I have your attention, I have a question.

I'm prepping Trouble's rear end to repaint it. I would like to use Metal2Metal to smooth the welds on either side of the pumpkin. I had someone (who doesn't do bodywork) tell me it would flake off. Is there really flex on the rear end at those weld locations? I have a hard time believing that, but I want to check and make sure before I proceed.

My plan is to use thin layers of Metal2Metal with a thin top coat of Evercoat glaze, as I've done everywhere else on the car. I'll be repainting the axle Sapphire Blue and the third member Chassis Black.

 

[Midlife]

I did that to Midlife and never had any problems in 8 years. My axle housing was pitted and I wanted it to look a bit better that that.

 

[janschutz]

Did mine with Metal2Metal 5 years ago. still looks good (when I clean the road grime off it), Then only bad thing was when I smoothed out all the weld seems, I opened up a pin hole which now leaks.

 

[Laurie S.]

It was suggested on VMF that I grind down the welds first. That does make me a little nervous.

 

[guruatbol]

I would not grind the welds down.

I like the welds and if you grind them you risk pin holes and leaks.

Your plan for your rear sounds good to me!

Mel

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[JeffTepper]

Now that I have your attention, I have a question.

I'm prepping Trouble's rear end to repaint it. I would like to use Metal2Metal to smooth the welds on either side of the pumpkin. I had someone (who doesn't do bodywork) tell me it would flake off. Is there really flex on the rear end at those weld locations? I have a hard time believing that, but I want to check and make sure before I proceed.

My plan is to use thin layers of Metal2Metal with a thin top coat of Evercoat glaze, as I've done everywhere else on the car. I'll be repainting the axle Sapphire Blue and the third member Chassis Black.

Laurie:

Not sure about flaking off but the diff can get pretty hot in operation so if M2M has a max temp that could be the weak link. On the other hand, when will you be driving Trouble far enough to actually heat up the diff ??

Regards, Jeff

 

[Laurie S.]

I decided against grinding anything, but did start putting the Metal2Metal on last night. It felt good to finally be working on the car again. At some point, I would hope to drive the car to Phoenix or Albuquerque, but most likely the car will be trailered long distances just for parking lot safety at night. I do want to bring it to Knotts, but also would trailer it over.

 

[MD69Boss]

After you get the welds tailored to your satisfaction, you might consider powder coating your rear end as opposed to painting.
I have been satisfied with mine for over 10 years, and it looks a good today as when I first had it done, clean up is a snap...

 

[Laurie S.]

I wish I could have it powder-coated but there's no way I could transport it and it has to be ready in one week. Jim Smart is coming in to help me with some things on the car. We've been trying to schedule this for several months and now we both have a very short window when our schedules work.

I do have a question, should I clearcoat it after painting? I'm using DuPont Centari single stage. I'd rather not do the extra step, but if it would be better, I'll face the bullet.

 

[MD69Boss]

In lieu of powder-coating clear my intake manifold after media blasting, I decided to use Eastwood Diamond Clear, and have been very happy with the results over the past few years. No yellowing or peeling in spite of the temp cycling underhood.
YMMV as this is an over bare metal application...

 

[jmlay]

I have a friend that powder coats, small operation. He uses jb weld as a filler before powder coating.

 

[Laurie S.]

I've decided to clearcoat it with the clear I used on the exterior and chassis. Painting third member on Friday, and the rest on Saturday. At least that's the plan.