• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

rear frame rail question

Fst Blk

Fst Blk

Well-Known Member
Planning to replace the rear frame rail area around the shackle area. In the original there is a brace with tubing running in between the rail for the bushing to go into. On the replacement does it include this or is it something you need to remove and reuse?

Bill
 
Looks like it comes in the new frame rail. Found this on Mustangs Unlimited.

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/it...=Body&subCategory=Frame+Rails&CatKey=EMUSTANG

88103-C.jpg
 
What are the triangular brackets that extend down from the frame rail just forward of the leaf springs? I'll get pics up in the morning. They are on both sides equally.

Bill
 
Fst Blk said:
What are the triangular brackets that extend down from the frame rail just forward of the leaf springs? I'll get pics up in the morning. They are on both sides equally.

Bill
Click to expand...
those were tie down brackets for shipping. The dealer was supposed to remove them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah. I suppose. Probably not many with them still on the car


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
They won't be on the car after I'm done. I don't have any plans to put the spare tire hold down that sits on the inside of the trunk on the passenger side back in either.

Bill
 
Mine had them, and I replaced the rails but didn't put them back on. I also didn't use the spare tire hold down. I put the battery on that side


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cool. I'm going Thursday to pick up all the parts for this. Full qtrs, rear frame rail portions, tail light panel, and rear floor area around the inner wheel well.

Bill
 
So, I've got my parts. On the rear frame rail, I've got way more metal than I need. Just basically need 12-15 inches to include the shackle portion. My question is, would you butt weld this or flange the patch in the existing rail? I was thinking flange and spot weld it, then seam weld it. I think this would add the most strength and be seamless to boot. What do you guys think?

Bill
 
Thats what we did on mine. The repop part was made to slide inside the ole rail. Then we welded it and ground it smooth. Hard to tell It was replaced.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So you used the whole thing? I may end up doing that, I'll have to look and see where it comes out to. I'd like to keep it in a easy spot to get to for dressing the welds. My hole punch has a flange tool on it also, so I can remake a flange.

Bill
 
I wouldn't flange it... If it doesn't fit within the current rails, then I would consider plating it on the inside with some 12 to 14 gauge stock (6" to 8" long) and put a few 3/8" plug welds through the rails on each side. When setting it up, leave a little gap so that you can fillet weld the old rail, new rail and plate all at once. That would make for a much stronger joint.
 
I had thought of plating it. That actually seems easier... considering I'll have spare metal from the rest of the rail.

Bill
 
stangg said:
I wouldn't flange it... If it doesn't fit within the current rails, then I would consider plating it on the inside with some 12 to 14 gauge stock (6" to 8" long) and put a few 3/8" plug welds through the rails on each side. When setting it up, leave a little gap so that you can fillet weld the old rail, new rail and plate all at once. That would make for a much stronger joint.
Click to expand...
+367.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top