• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Suggestions, Comments and Help!

Larry G

Larry G

Member
Has anyone ever seen or had this happen to them, the intake gasket slipping out from between the head and intake? This is happening at all four corners of the intake. The intake was and is toquered to specs..

595-300812114121.jpeg


595-300812132647.jpeg


595-300812132614.jpeg


595-300812132539.jpeg


I for sure don't know why this happened, it's happened before, the gasket is pushing/slipping out and splitting at the intake port/ports allowing air into the cylinders after the carb. so I can't get a good adjustment on the carb.
A friend suggested using the metal valley pan gasket but I think Edelbrock says to use regular gaskets, maybe because of the dissimilar metals.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What kind of intake do you have ???
You sure you have the correct seals ???
Maybe you use sealant on both sides and thats what you should not do???
By using sealant on both sides , you give the seal an opportunity to queeze itself to the outside ???
Some thoughts .
 
Edelbrock manifold, yes the correct gasket Felpro for the 2v heads, Just a little sealant on the head side to hold the gasket in place.
Thanks, that's what I need, suggestions on how to fix this so it doesn't happen again.
 
Are you using studs to locate the intake manifold, and then removing the studs one by one with the proper bolts?

Is your bolt tightening sequence according to the manual (3 stages, criss-cross)?
 
The block no, not sure on the heads, when I had them rebuilt they didn't mention that they had been. I have some pictures that look like the combustion surface may have been, but not the intake surface.
 
I always use some "Right Stuff" (no, THAT :gs kind), put a thin layer on the head side, locate gaskets, drop intake in (using guide bolts) and just snug it down, leaving it to set overnight. I've never had them more doing that way.
 
"Larry G" said:
The block no, not sure on the heads, when I had them rebuilt they didn't mention that they had been. I have some pictures that look like the combustion surface may have been, but not the intake surface.
Click to expand...

If the heads were milled, then the intake mating surface could be lower now. If you also used the supplied front and rear seals as opposed just a bead of RTV, then perhaps the front and rear seal are preventing you from getting the full torque on the intake gaskets. It doesn't seem right that the gasket would split like that unless there wasn't a lot of pressure holding it in place, or as stated earlier that maybe too much sealant on bith sides of the gasket.
 
I had a problem with my 429 leaking coolant through the intake into the crankcase when I first put it together. I changed intake gaskets twice. As you did, I only use a bead of RTV on the ends and not the supplied rubber or (or cork in some cases). Both times I used Felpro as I have had good luck in the past, however, after two failures I bought intake gaskets from Ford. I haven't had any issues since. I'm not saying it's a Felpro problem but a different type of gasket may be what's needed....?
 
Craig, did you use the Ford metal valley pan with the thin gasket on your car?
I had this happen with this Fel-Pro and a Edelbrock gasket. I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow, see if the gasket is split at any of the intake runners, like I think it is and go from there.
 
When the head were installed, Were the locator dowels inplace?
Without them it will throw off the intakes positioning when torked.
 
On a smallblock, I tack the intake gaskets in place with Indian Head or Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to keep them properly centered on the intake ports and use Ultra Black for the ends. If I don't then the gaskets slip down a bit so there's less material at the top of the intake port, as well as a flow issue.

When you get everything cleaned up, set the intake on and look to see that the gasket surfaces are parallel. If they aren't, then you probably need the intake milled to match the heads and block.

Robert
 
Yes the dowel pin are installed, you can see one of them in the first picture posted.

Got the intake removed and it's not a pretty sight.

595-310812093623.jpeg


595-310812094209.jpeg


595-310812094241.jpeg


I used this stuff to hold the gasket in-place on the head,

595-310812094310.jpeg


wondering if it did something to the gasket. :shrug I wouldn't think so.

Now what do I do to fix it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It is really hard to tell what caused the damage to the gaskets in the pics but it does look like they may have been "chemically damaged" by something. Take a piece that is not messed up and put some of the Gasgacinch on it and see if it has any adverse affect. Since the label says it is flammable I would presume it has something in it that could breakdown the gasket material.

I have changed many an intake and have never seen a problem like yours.
 
"Larry G" said:
I used this stuff to hold the gasket in-place on the head

wondering if it did something to the gasket. :shrug I wouldn't think so.
Click to expand...

That Gasgacinch was recommended by Edeldbrock in the instructions for my Performer RPM AG manifold. Seems odd if they were to recommend something that would do that to a gasket?

Hopefully you get it sorted out to your satisfaction. You may try posting up on the 351Cleveland.net forum to see if they have any additional ideas:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top