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Intake is leakin. Got any helpful secrets??

copasspupil

copasspupil

Member
Donator
I suck, hacked off and must have midlifes curse with this car. Every step forward gets me two back. My demon carb is leakin and so is my intake manifold It's my forth attempt at getting it sealed and am looking for helpful secrets on what you do that works. Materials, sealants and bolts to use a plus

Thanks
 
Here's what I do:

Carb pre-fit - make sure the carb mount on top of the intake is perfectly flat using sand paper stuck to a level. Go around it till it's perfectly flat. Check the carb base too.

Intake - I use new ARP intake bolts, studs at each corner to guide the intake on. Smear a little "Right Stuff" around the water openings before and after gasket installation and use the cork gaskets at the front and rear (clean thoroughly before applying cork). Put a fat bead of "Right Stuff" on top of the cork, making sure it covers the joints. Slide the intake over the studs and torque the bolts in correct sequence through 3 torque settings.

Set carb on manifold and torque to spec, don't guess and overtighten!
 
Install like above but clean the mating surfaces with acetone or alcohol to remove all of the oil film. Toss he cork & put the appropriate size bead of the right stuff in place of the cork. Then install the manifold. Let he right stuff cure & trim off any excess that has oozed out with a razor blade.
 
"jmlay" said:
Install like above but clean the mating surfaces with acetone or alcohol to remove all of the oil film. Toss he cork & put the appropriate size bead of the right stuff in place of the cork. Then install the manifold. Let he right stuff cure & trim off any excess that has oozed out with a razor blade.
Click to expand...
+1

Cork gaskets can be a real mother to get to stay in place. They love to move around as pressure is applied. Today's silicone sealers do a much better job.
 
I like the gaskets that have the pockets of gorilla snot in them. Then I use a dab of gorilla snot at under and in the corners of the front and rear rubber gasket. Never had a leak, ever!!!!! On eight different Mustangs with small blocks.

The carb leak, when you mount it you should draw file the manifold just like you would on a set of heads and the block. You could use sand paper on the base of the carb if you want to. I also use gorilla snot on the carb base. There are often imperfections on the carb bases sometimes from shipping and handling of just handling around the shop. So, I choose to seal those between the gasket and the carb as well as between the gasket and the manifold.


I trim any excess that squeezes out after it cures with a razor blade.

Draw filing is your friend, but can be hard to do so be very careful! Specially on aluminum. I never thought of the sand paper idea, I like it though for soft metals.

Also clean surfaces are your friend! I use brake clean, rubbing alcohol, acetone or the like. Something that will evaporate fast, not leave it's own film and clean off the oil.

Mel
 
Throw the cork and rubber end pieces in the trash where they belong.

I smear a tiny bit of black rtv on the gaskets at the coolant passages, and run a 3/8 bead of black rtv on the front and back of the deck. I also put a dab under the locators on the side gaskets where they were supposed to meet the cork pieces.

I use Toyota 00295-00102 black sealant. It has the consistency of a black o-ring when dry.

Permatex Ultra Grey is a suggested interchange for it.
 
I ordered the demon carb rebuild kit for the gasket I need and the intake is leaking oil. My intake when I dry fitted it had about 3/16" gap on the front and rear so I thought the cork was needed

To continue on the carb my mechanic needed to clean out the bowls and now the front section leaks
 
When I learned engines in college many years ago, I thought I knew enough to toss the rubber pieces. The old timer instructor got all up in my stuff when I tossed the. He showed me what I said above and I have never had a leak since... well never had one before either...

Mel

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
 
I guess the people that are afraid of the cork gaskets just can't understand the concept of "clean before application"


:whis
 
I've been using the cork for the past 30+ years without a leak. I learned early on to

0000-Permatex-High-Tack-Gasket-Sealant---.jpg


them in place first and they'll never move.

I use high tack a lot. Water pumps, fuel pumps, valve covers, etc. get it so when the piece is removed, the gasket comes with it. Makes life a lot easier.

For the intake, I high tack the cork to the block and then set the intake on with a thin layer of RVT on top of the cork.
 
I was sitting here with the Right Stuff in Silicone Valley, rolling a chunk of Gorilla Snot between my finger and thumb and considering this cork vs. Permatex dispute. I've done it both ways, with cork and with RTV, and I've never had a leak. Did you torque the intake down in the proper sequence? I've also never had a carb leak. Is your manifold warped or some how distorted?
 
I did do the proper sequence but don't remember the number of times I took to tighten the bolts for the specs needed
 
+1 toss the cork and use silicone on the ends. Never had a leak.

I don't intend to insult your intelligence, but what's your torque sequence? Start at the center and move outward. Tighten in three separate sequences. After running the motor, re-torque. Aluminum specs are much lighter than the specs for cast iron manifolds.
 
"Opentracker" said:
I've been using the cork for the past 30+ years without a leak. I learned early on to

0000-Permatex-High-Tack-Gasket-Sealant---.jpg


them in place first and they'll never move.

I use high tack a lot. Water pumps, fuel pumps, valve covers, etc. get it so when the piece is removed, the gasket comes with it. Makes life a lot easier.

For the intake, I high tack the cork to the block and then set the intake on with a thin layer of RVT on top of the cork.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but did it improve your sex life? And....would it help my leaky Beer Battered Fish Tacos?
 
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